I’m almost embarrassed to admit that I hadn’t been to Greece since 1984, during my backpacking through Europe days, when I stayed a couple of weeks on the Saronic Gulf islands. I’d forgotten how much I like the country until my recent visit with Pax More Greece, our new Athens-based client.

There were so many cool things — especially the food! — that I need to spread this trip report over several newsletters. Starting with Athens, of course. For a major city, it can seem unpolished and often looks a little grubby. But it’s a vibrant, busy metropolis with a lot going on in the various neighborhoods.

Capital Central MGallery

I stayed in the heart of the city at the Athens Capital Central Hotel – MGallery Collection,(Accor). It’s a lovely modern, five-star hotel on Syntagma Square, across the street from the Hellenic Parliament building, where you can watch the daily Changing of the Guard by the Evzones troops in their historic uniforms. I had a view of it from my hotel room. The guard changes every hour (on the hour), with a more formal ceremony every Sunday at 11 am.

The hotel boasts a large art collection and rooftop bar/pool with views of the Parthenon. Some parts of the hotel also offer views of Lycabettus Hill — the highest point in Athens — which is a terrific place to hike or drive to watch the sunset and night lights over the city. The food there was terrific – and a lovely breakfast buffet with lots of healthy options!

There are plenty of the other hotels in the same area, including the legendary Grand Bretange and King George.

Exploring the City on Foot

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Pax More Greece team told me it was safe to walk around my hotel and before my tours, I explored the neighborhood on my own. From the Capital Central, it’s a short stroll to various neighborhoods and museums. I was able to walk to the chic Kolonaki district, the historical and picturesque Plaka area, and Monastiraki with its famous flea market. It’s also just a few steps away from the fashion boutiques of high-end Voukourestiou Street.

I especially liked the Plaka, a charming, crowded old neighborhood below the Acropolis with lots of shops and restaurants. In nearby Psirri, there’s music nightly and great sweet shops. A favorite hotel in this area was The Gem Society, which is in Klafthmonos Sq. — not too far away.

As you walk around the city you encounter lots of cats. Apparently, it’s an Athens thing. There are blogs and websites devoted to the city’s famous felines, as well as cat rescue centers and shelters where tourists can volunteer. One of the quirkier things about Athens.

Eating Your Way Across Athens

It seems like every meal was amazing. After all, the word “epicure” traces its roots to ancient Greece. One restaurant that  stood out is Simul Gastronomic Situ; (63 Ipsilantou, Kolonaki, Athens; tel +30 210 722 4737). It is s a very local restaurant featuring Greek cuisine with a modern flare. It was fabulous.

Yorgos, the owner of Paxmore Greece is very fond of Aiolou 68. He says there fish meze is fabulous!

My tips for visiting Athens:

No Uber in Athens — walk, taxi or take the metro
Don’t wear a skirt or dress at the New Acropolis Museum — the floors are glass!
Pack really good walking shoes — very uneven pavement/stones
Bring a water bottle, sunscreen, and hat — this is sunny Greece

– Jane Behrend