Kiki’s Trip Report Cheli & Peacock

July 20, 2014 - 18 minutes read

CHELI & PEACOCK

This family owned and managed, independent company specializes in custom creating bespoke, up-market safaris in Kenya and Tanzania based on your clients’interests. As one of Kenya’s leading DMCs, their goal is to create a romantic, adventurous, real safari experience that is transformative, fun and educational.

Founders, Stefano Cheli and Liz Peacock, started as professional guides and know guiding is the key to any great safari. In fact 4 of Kenya’s 16 Gold rated guides work at lodges in The C&P Portfolio.

Always on the ground to keep up with events and changes in East African lodge management, their expert safari planners know which lodges are best to suit your clients’needs, tastes and budgets. The enjoyment and safety of guests are of paramount importance to the Cheli & Peacock team.

Attention to detail is one of their strong suits as well as knowledge, passion, a sense of adventure and love of sharing their country.   http://chelipeacock.com

THE C&P PORTFOLIO

All of the camps in the Portfolio are committed to environmentally friendly practices and sustainable tourism as evidenced by their Gold and Silver Eco ratings, support of local employment, give back to local schools / communities and support of wildlife conservation. Each of the camps can arrange visits to local tribes and schools that they support.

Elephants

You will find no plastic water bottles in any of the camps. Instead, triple-filtered water is provided in pitchers for each tent / cottage and reusable / refillable water bottles are given to each guest. At most of the camps you will find solar panels for hot water and lighting, locally sourced toiletries that are also natural and biodegradable, and gardens.

Gracious, friendly service is provided by a well-trained staff who all seem to enjoy what they do. Each camp manager-team have their own charming unique personalities and great care is taken to ensure you enjoy a safari like no other. Each camp takes advantage of its unique landscape and vistas for sundowners and bush meals. I experienced breathtaking sunsets atop many a hill while drinking fine South African or Chilean wine and munching on delightful nibbles.

All of the camps are child friendly and welcome the opportunity to create family experiences and memories that will last a lifetime.

Delicious and varied food is served with as much of the fresh ingredients coming from the respective gardens. Special dietary requirements are accommodated – advance notice at time of booking is greatly appreciated. As a vegetarian, I ate extremely well with different dishes and options at each camp. Well-stocked bars will be much appreciated after the day’s game drives and activities. http://www.thecpportfolio.com

TORTILIS CAMP

Amboseli is known for its stunning and direct views of snow capped Mt. Kilimanjaro and abundance of elephants. It does not disappoint on either. With quite a few natural springs that feed the “swamp” as they call it, there are patches of green everywhere keeping the 1,000+ elephants happy.   Tortilis is recognized as the best camp in Amboseli and again, does not disappoint. With its 16 tents, 1 family tent and 1 family house that all face Mt. Kilimanjaro, the views are awe inspiring. Each tent has a thatched roof, porch with lounging daybed, double vanities and rain shower. The family tent and house share a private pool.

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A Silver Eco rated lodge, Tortilis is impressively, completely solar powered. The toiletries are locally sourced, natural and biodegradable. As many of your vegetables and spices are grown in their garden as possible.   Your charming Italian hosts, Andrea and Manuela, will make sure your stay is as delightful as they are! Food is their passion – you will eat extremely well. Great care was taken with my vegetarian food while a self-professed French Canadian food snob staying there declared the food and cheese selection superb, better than Nairobi where she currently lives. The open sided bar and restaurant look out at glorious Kilimanjaro as well as a waterhole, which is lit at night. There is a pool, spa and the camp is very child friendly.

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Wildlife wise, in one afternoon game drive, I saw 2 serval cats in different places as well as a cheetah. Of course there are lions, hippos, numerous antelope species, zebra, giraffe, hyenas, and leopard. One of Kenya’s 16 Gold rated guides is at Tortilis, and the other 7 guides are silver and bronze rated. Activities include game drives, walking safaris, bush breakfasts, sundowners, cultural visits and spa treatments.

Tortilis’commitment to the local community is evidenced in their charitable contributions to the Kitirua Conservancy, Big Life Foundation and local hiring with 52 of the 70 staff from the local Maasai tribe.     http://tortilis.com

Northern Kenya

Much to my amazement I got to see 5 wildlife species that I had never seen before on my approximately 100 game drives. Pure, unadulterated joy! I call them the ‘Unique Five’as they are found mainly in Northern Kenya:

Grevy’s Zebra – the largest of the 3 zebra species is found only in Northern Kenya and small areas of Ethiopia.

Grevy’s Zebra - the largest of the 3 zebra species is found only in Northern Kenya and small areas of Ethiopia.

Grevy’s Zebra – the largest of the 3 zebra species is found only in Northern Kenya and small areas of Ethiopia.

 

 

Somali Ostrich - subspecies with blue neck and legs found in Somalia, Ethiopia, East and Northern Kenya.

Somali Ostrich – subspecies with blue neck and legs found in Somalia, Ethiopia, East and Northern Kenya.

 

Reticulated Giraffe - 1 of 9 subspecies found in Northern Kenya, Somalia, and Ethiopia.

Reticulated Giraffe – 1 of 9 subspecies found in Northern Kenya, Somalia, and Ethiopia.

 - long necked antelope species found in Northern Kenya, Ethiopia, Somalia, small areas of Tanzania.

Gerenuk- long necked antelope species found in Northern Kenya, Ethiopia, Somalia, small areas of Tanzania.

Striped Hyena – species found in Northern Kenya, Ethiopia, small areas of Tanzania, Asia, and Middle East. (too quick for a photo)   In addition to the “Unique Five,”Northern Kenya has several private game reserves and is more off-the-beaten-path for those wanting a safari experience rich with history, less hustle and bustle after enjoying the big herds of the Mara and Amboseli.

ELSA’S KOPJE

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Located in the Meru National Park, this beautifully unique camp is built on Mughwango Hill. Overlooking the vast plains, each en-suite cottage is slightly different and sculpted around the rocks with a large bedroom, sitting room, and a verandah with stunning views. There are 9 cottages, a honeymoon suite and private house, outdoor dining, pool and spa. Long time managers, Philip and Charlie will delight you with their passion for the area and Philip’s knowledge of the 130+ flower species that bloom there. Elsa’s has earned a Silver Eco rating with its use of solar power and other environmentally friendly practices.       Screen Shot 2014-07-19 at 1.02.55 PMFor the person of a certain era who grew up with Born Free, Elsa’s Kopje will bring back memories of childhood and falling in love with romantic Africa. George and Joy Adamson made this area famous with their work raising lions and releasing them back into the wild. Elsa, the lion, is buried nearby and guides are happy to take guests there should they want.   Once again you will dine on delicious food with fresh vegetables and herbs from their garden, freshly baked-on-premises bread, and unexpected dishes. Service is friendly and gracious.

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Wildlife thrives in Meru with a rhino sanctuary, large elephant herds, big cats, birds, the ‘Unique Five’, hippo and and other safari animals you would expect in this very diverse national park. Activities include game drives, walking safaris, fishing, sundowners, bush breakfasts and cultural visits.http://elsaskopje.com

JOY’S CAMP

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Joy’s Camp in the Shaba National Reserve is a delightfully elegant and cheery camp with brightly colored fabrics from the dominant Borana tribe, and a hint of Arabic architecture – truly unique! Your Swiss and British hosts, Iris and Pelham, will welcome you warmly and are proud to share the photos and story of Joy Adamson who lived there with Penny the leopard after Elsa’s death. If you have an interest, Joy pitched her original camp in Shaba approximately where tent #7 is located. After a delicious dinner Iris and Pelham are happy to point out the various constellations in the breathtaking African night sky.

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There are 10 tents in total – 3 twins and 7 doubles, each has a verandah with sweeping views and shaded by a canopy of acacia trees. The bathroom has a rain shower and double vanities as well as floor tiles with tiny lights. Joy’s camp has an impressive Gold Eco rating, 5 vehicles and guides along with 2 KWS rangers in camp at all times.

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Shaba, in the eastern Samburu eco system, has a unique beauty with its mountains and arid landscape. Multiple natural springs keep patches of land very green and the wildlife well watered. No other camps drive in Shaba so you will have game drives mostly to yourself. There are 500 species of birds here as well as the Unique Five: Grevy’s zebra, reticulated giraffe, Somali ostrich, Gerenuk, and striped hyena. Other wildlife there are lions, cheetah, leopard, serval cats, aardwolf, genet cats, spotted hyena, jackals, antelope, seasonal elephants and the Beisa Oryx.   Joy’s is a wonderful place to relax and experience the wildness of Shaba. Swim in the pool, get a massage, play croquet, scrabble or backgammon, have a drink at the bar, lounge on your verandah for a bit of daydreaming, take a gorge walk, enjoy night drives, bush breakfast, sundowner, visit the salt craters or visit the school they support. You may not even have time for a game drive! $12 of each bed night goes to the Nakuprat-Gotu Wildlife Conservancy.   Having earned a prestigious Gold Eco rating, Joy’s Camp is proof that luxury and eco go well together. Solar energy is used for lighting and heating water while other environmentally friendly practices are incorporated behind the scenes. Fresh vegetables from the garden are one of the reasons food is delicious at camp. You will enjoy the friendly staff and service while here. http://joyscamp.com

LEWA SAFARI CAMP

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Lewa Wildlife Conservancy, historic in Kenya, is a private concession of approximately 65,000 acres where you will find the Big 5 along with the ‘Unique Five’, Besia Oryx and 300+ bird species. The conservancy owns Lewa Safari Camp while Cheli & Peacock has managed the property for the last 6 years. All profits go back into this conservancy which makes Lewa Safari Camp unique in the area as well as popular with travelers. This is responsible tourism at its best with support going to wildlife, micro finance projects, schools, water and medical programs.

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This rustic tented camp is Silver Eco rated and has a total of 12 large tents with verandahs, including 2 family tents, a pool and comfortable lodge. The altitude is slightly higher with cooler temperatures and rolling hills that offer up stunning vistas and incredible wildlife. Food was abundant and very good; fresh vegetables and ingredients are from nearby mountain highland villages. Service is helpful, friendly and often entertaining.

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Activities include game drives, walking safaris, horse or camel riding, bush breakfast, sundowners, cultural visits, spa treatments and swimming. Our bush breakfast high on a hill overlooking Lewa Conservancy and a large herd of buffaloes and elephants was a beautiful way to start the day! On this private conservancy you will not find large safari buses or many vehicles which make for a more intimate safari experience. http://lewasafaricamp.com

COTTAR’S 1920s SAFARI CAMP

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This award winning, Silver Eco rated camp is right out of ‘Out of Africa’in feel and ambiance. With 10 spacious en-suite tents including a honeymoon tent and 4 family suite-tents, the camp is spaced out for privacy and solitude to enjoy the quiet of the wilderness. Each tent has an old Africa decor with beautiful antique trunks, photos, beautiful linens and verandah that overlooks the Mara into the Serengeti. You will find a pool, spa and large lounge and dining area under a tented canvas that are both sumptuously designed. Luxury, elegance and romance are what you will experience.

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Located in its own 6,000 acre private conservancy in the Mara, Cottar’s overlooks the Serengeti and Loliondo with incredible wildlife viewing. Owned by professional guides, guiding is of paramount importance. In fact, you will find 3 of Kenya’s 16 Gold rated guides at Cottar’s. If you are lucky enough to find proprietor, Calvin Cottar there, you will be fascinated with his take on conservancy and his passion for Kenya.   Game drives, walking safaris, night drives, cultural visits to the local Maasai tribe, bush meals, sundowners, fishing, swimming, spa treatments are all available here. Please be sure and schedule a massage and canvas bath on your private verandah. You will be so transported by the experience you will wonder why Robert Redford isn’t there washing your hair.       There is also a private house, magnificent with 5 en-suite bedrooms, several large open living spaces, dining areas, large verandah with stunning views and private staff as well as vehicles. http://www.cottars.com/cottars-1920s-camp

The C&P Portfolio includes 2 more camps I did not get to visit on this trip:   Elephant Pepper Camp / Maasai Mara: http://elephantpeppercamp.com Kitich Camp / Mathew’s Forest: http://kitichcamp.com   Please note, all photos in this trip report are photos I took this past May, 2014.

I always walk into my tent or cottage and immediately take photos without staging or lighting….exactly what your clients will see upon arrival. Please visit each camp’s website for a gallery of professional photos! (kiki paris / www.emergingdestinations.com)