My Icelandic Adventure

Beginning in September, Iceland becomes the land of the dancing Northern Lights. On my recent trip with Iceland ProCruises on their Northern Lights & Whales departure, I was lucky enough to see a small glimmer of them on the North Atlantic somewhere between Akureyri and our next port, Ísafjörður. A small pod of humpback whales were our evening entertainment as we departed the fjord aboard the Ocean Diamond. But this cruise wasn’t just about Northern Lights and North Atlantic whales — it was also about the vast diversity of landscapes we encountered both at sea and on land. Below is a day-to-day recap of my Icelandic adventure.

Beginning in Reykjavik, there is certainly not a shortage of delicious restaurants, shopping and exciting day trips departing from city center. Which is great because most flights, like mine, arrive very early in the morning and hotel check-in doesn’t start until 2 pm. I found myself wondering how to entertain myself. But that didn’t last long because I found the Sculpture Shore Walk from my hotel (Fosshotel Baron) into the city. The path runs along the water and spits you right in front of Harpa, where you can then walk along the famous Laugavegur shopping street. The city is easily navigable and very walkable. One of my favorite things that I did before starting the journey with Iceland ProCruises was visit the Sun Voyager monument, sculpture by Jón Gunnar Árnason and located next to the Sæbraut road in Reykjavik. Sun Voyager is a dreamboat, an ode to the sun. Intrinsically, it contains within itself the promise of undiscovered territory, a dream of hope, progress and freedom. You can’t miss it when you’re walking along the Sculpture Shore Walk into the city.

Day 1: After a self-guided tour and some retail therapy in the morning, a relaxing evening soak in the Blue Lagoon was the perfect resolution to my jetlag. The mud masks and swim-up bars were also a huge help, followed by a lovely three-course dinner at the Lava Restaurant inside the Blue Lagoon. The food, staff and ambiance make for a relaxing way to begin your journey in Iceland. A 45-minute drive led us back to the city where Hotel Storm, a lovely 4-star property, was our accommodation for the night before beginning our city tour of Reykjavik the next morning.

Day 2: Reykjavik is a lively and colorful city and a guided city tour is a must! Besides the iconic Hallgrimskirkja church (the tallest building in Reykjavik) there is the Harpa music and concert hall, Baejarins Beztu Pylsur (the famous hot dog stand), Perlan (a great overlook of the city) and much more. We warmed up with a delicious soup from Restaurant Reykjavik before heading to Thingvellir National Park, a great place to learn about Iceland’s history and geology. It’s where the Althingi parliament was founded in the year 930 AD on a piece of land between the two continental plates that divides Iceland between Europe and North America. An overnight stay in the southern town of Selfoss (at Hotel Selfoss) was the perfect ending to a busy day. And a much-needed happy hour was thoroughly enjoyed!

Day 3: This was the most unique day of the trip. In the morning we visited the geysers in the Haukadalur geothermal area, as well as Gullfoss or “Golden Falls” waterfall. Although we saw quite a few waterfalls, this one was extremely impressive and the beautiful blue sky made it even more awesome. The afternoon consisted of a long drive along the Kjölur Highland Route (F35) that begins at Gullfoss. Historically, trails in the highlands were used as summer shortcuts between north and south Iceland. Myths about ghosts and fearsome outlaws spurred travelers to hurry along the tracks. Today, it’s probably wiser to worry about the weather, as conditions can be fickle and snow is not uncommon, even in mid-summer. (Read more about Iceland’s Highlands in the Iceland Times here). Not very many people get to travel this route, so it was awesome to see the vastness of the highlands. Once in Akureyri, comfortable beds awaited at the Hotel Kea.

Day 4: A morning tour of the Myvatn Nature Reserve, 0ne of my favorite areas of Iceland. When I visited the island two years ago, this area really struck me as special. This day was dedicated to exploring the still-warm lava fields, massive craters, steaming landscapes, frozen lava flows and fissures. Another highlight of the area is the Myvatn Nature Baths. These baths boast incredible views and are much less “touristy” and crowded than the Blue Lagoon. They’re a must if you have the time! In the afternoon, our long-awaited embarkation on the Ocean Diamondarrived. What a lovely ship. I recommend enjoying a welcome cocktail in the club lounge while watching the ever-changing views of the island. Learn more about the vessel here.

Day 5: Ísafjörður, an idyllic town in the Westfjords region, was our next stop. The landscape includes jaw-dropping views of dramatic fjords carved by ancient glaciers, sheer table mountains that plunge into the sea and pristine North Atlantic vegetation. Due to the weather canceling our kayak tour in Flateyri, we decided to hike a nearby trail. The path went through a small forest and along the avalanche wall surrounding the town. The reward was a magnificent view overlooking the town with the Ocean Diamond in the distance. Another highlight of the small town was a most the incredible fish restaurant we came across in Iceland — Tjoruhusid. Arndis, an expedition leader on board, told us about this “hole in the wall” place and I’m so glad he did. The fish soup, cod cheek and fresh catch of the day were to die for. I don’t think I’ll ever eat fish again because I’m pretty sure that I’ve had the best of the best at this restaurant. The excursion options at this port can be explored on our website here. I didn’t go on the bus tour to Thingeyri and Dynjandi waterfall, but I heard it was well worth the effort.

Day 6: Stykkisholmur is often called “Iceland in Miniature” because of its diverse landscapes. The area is home to Snaefellsjökull glacier, which sits atop a 700,000-year-old dormant volcano that was featured in the Jules Verne novel Journey to the Center of the Earth. The bus tour around the Snaefellsnes peninsula is the best way to get the entire taste of the area. Also on offer at this port was a “Viking Sushi” adventure, which I heard was delicious. I chose to relax with the locals in one of the town’s hot pots (only $5). There’s also a very interesting volcano museum within walking distance of the port. Lots to do in this very small town!

Day 7: I feel like I’ve gotten the perfect taste of Iceland from both land and sea. After a buffet breakfast, the staff collected our bags and we left the Ocean Diamond. After disembarking, we decided to take a hike on the Sólheimajökull glacier, so we stored our baggage. If you’ve chosen to spend an extra day in Iceland (which I highly recommend) almost all tour companies will pick you up from the seaport, or somewhere near by, so that you can still participate in a day tour. Below is a picture of our “Take a Walk on the Ice Side” with Icelandic Mountain Guides.

We had a lovely trip and I can’t wait to go back to Iceland!