Namibia Trip Report – African Profile Safaris
February 12, 2013 - 17 minutes read
Where to start…..with the enchanting fairy circles? Ochre sand dunes? Dolphins? Lions and leopards? Desert elephants? The statuesque oryx? Tree rivers – dry desert riverbeds dotted green with trees where the water should be?
This is a land of stunning beauty and stark contrasts with the coast, desolate desert, waterfalls, mountains, scrub brush, trees, the Ovahimba tribes and bushmen who live much as they always have in primitive huts, along with lodges and guesthouses designed to an industrial, boutique chic perfection that would not look out of place in Dwell or Architectural Digest.
Namibia might be the one country where wildlife viewing competes with the magnificence of its distinctive landscapes.
The ideal way to experience Namibia is by air with African Profile Safaris, local experts passionate about their country, wildlife, fauna and history. APS is the only DMC that offers guided, fly-in safaris with pilots who are also expert guides. They own 4 well-maintained, spotless planes and as another point of distinction, all guests have headphones and are able to listen to the history and learn about the land while flying over the diverse geography.
With my 14 expertly executed takeoffs and landings on small gravel or sand airstrips throughout the country, I was privileged to see much more in 2 weeks than if traveling by vehicle. When flying, I wanted proprietor, Ole Friede, to be a pilot first / then guide, and while on the ground I appreciated his seemingly endless guiding knowledge and anecdotes! Even at the different lodges, he accompanies his guests and guides along with lodge guides.
Ole’s years heading up Namibia’s game catching division has given him invaluable experience with wildlife and conservation, something Namibia has incorporated better than any other African country. It was fascinating to learn the specifics of capturing and relocating the various animals. I was surprised by his answer on the most difficult species to capture, but you’ll have to ask him yourself!
This family-run business is managed by Ole’s wife, Marie Friede. She and her team will ensure your clients’ custom itinerary fits their specific interests and budgets whether via air, a traditional ground safari, or self-drive safari. They work with all the lodges throughout Namibia as well as the surrounding countries where they also fly.
I must interject that I lost a memory card with the most amazing wildlife photos (dolphins, fighting zebras) including some of the lodges, as well as one with Ole on a stepladder washing plane windows for better viewing and photography. The focus on client satisfaction and attention to detail……
My lodge reviews include food and in full disclosure, you should know I’m a vegetarian. So why would anyone be interested in my food opinions in this meat-loving country? My opinion is if the chef takes time to present a delicious and creative meal instead of steamed vegetables, you can rest assured the same attention will apply to everyone’s meal. While I rarely worry about going hungry, this vegetarian foodie does get very annoyed (and bored) at having to eat steamed broccoli, boiled potatoes and pasta day in, day out while traveling.
Property Reviews:
Property: The Fort on Fisher’s Pan
Location: Onguma Game Reserve, eastern border Etosha National Park
Décor: The Fort is a stunning fort-like structure with massive stonewalls and amazing antique wooden doors from India. The linear pool that greets you as you enter is both cooling and serene and the see-through view to the desert and waterhole is breathtaking. The property is beautiful with its unique blend of Morocco, India and Africa.
Amenities: Pool, pool bar, air cooling systems in rooms, hair dryers.
# of Rooms: 11 mini suites, 1 maxi suite, 1 fort suite
Rooms: Spacious, luxurious linens, elegant bathroom + outdoor shower, comfortable furniture, terrace with lounge chairs.
Ambiance: You want to view wildlife from the terrace and never leave your room.
Staff: Helpful, smiling, attentive.
Food: Good, thought put into menu, not simply side dishes.
Highlight: Stefan Kotze, camp manager, hosted a wine and chocolate tasting that was one of the best I’ve ever had the pleasure of experiencing anywhere in the world. He is both an expert and aficionado and has a wonderful wine cellar he’s proud to share. Be sure and book for your clients’ visit.
Other: While on the Ongumu Game Reserve we also visited the Bush Camp, which is a much larger, budget property although nicer than the term “budget” implies. There is also the Onguma Tented Camp with 7 beautiful tents and Tree Top, with only 4 tents all built on stilts. All of the Onguma properties are built around waterholes of varying sizes.
http://www.onguma.com/about-us/onguma-the-fort.htm
Property: Okaukuejo Rest Camp, a jointly owned private/government property operated by Namibia Wildlife Resorts.
Location: Inside Etosha National Park
Décor: Institutional.
Amenities: Pool, air conditioner (if it works), waterhole.
# of Rooms: 120+ campsites.
Rooms: Minimal, basic, functional.
Ambiance: Institutional, although newer chalets built around waterhole are nicer with a hint of charm. (viewed but did not stay there)
Staff: Indifferent, with an occasional smile, no greeting upon entering office to register.
Food: Buffet, boring, bad. Lots of wild game for meat lovers but everything else is boiled potatoes, steamed broccoli, etc. Nasty, sweet dressing on every salad bar item except the olives. Did get to try the local bell squash, which was novel and the best thing I ate there.
Highlights: The floodlit waterhole is really good! We saw rhinos late at night and elephants in the wee hours around 5am. Game viewing is excellent in Etosha: lions, leopard, rhinos, elephants, birds, many antelope species, etc.
Other: Can do game night drives.
http://www.nwr.com.na/okaukuejo_camp.html
Property: Okahirongo Elephant Lodge
Location: Purros Conservancy in the Kaokoveld coastal desert.
Décor: African chic with an excellent African mask and sculpture collection, external buildings are terracotta and meld into the desert hillside.
Amenities: Turquoise infinity pool, library.
# of Rooms: 7, 2 of which are family suites.
Rooms: Each room has private gazebo and daybed, soaking tub, indoor and outdoor showers.
Ambiance: Beautiful dark woods, luxurious linens, different textiles.
Staff: Nice, smiling. (we only had lunch here)
Food: Amazing! Camp manager, Natasha, is a total foodie. Some of the food is grown on site and the menu is changed daily. For lunch, the salad was mandolin-sliced green apple with feta and honey mustard dressing. My vegetarian offering was a stuffed yellow pepper, beautifully plated with potato salad and for dessert, one of the best cheesecakes I’ve ever tasted, – baked on site, of course.
Highlights: Infinity pool, beautifully appointed common areas and rooms overlook the stunning Purros Valley.
Other: One of the most remote lodges in Namibia, luxurious and blends into surrounding environment. Visit the local nomadic Himba village and learn their way of life.
http://www.okahirongolodge.com/Okahirongo_lodge.html
Property: Camp Kipwe
Location: Twyfelfontein area of Damaraland
Décor: Round, thatched roof, open dining room, lounge and reception – different and charming.
Amenities: Small pool, stunning sundowner spot, lounge, bar, electricity, hair dryers.
# of Rooms: 9 + 1 suite
Rooms: Unique – each spacious room is round and charmingly built into the granite boulders with amazing, private outdoor bathrooms.
Ambiance: Organic, natural colors, lovely linens and textiles with outdoor porch, deck chairs overlooking desert vistas.
Staff: Efficient, polite, helpful, friendly yet slightly reserved.
Food: Good, messed up the definition of “vegetarian” at dinner and quickly threw together the ubiquitous Greek salad that is everywhere in Namibia. Breakfast and lunch were better the following day.
Highlights: Ancient rock engravings, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the organ pipes, desert elephant game drives, great desert elephant excursion.
Other: Balloon safari is available nearby.
http://www.kipwe.com/camp-kipwe-home.html
Property: Hansa Hotel
Location: Swakopmund
Décor: Lovingly restored grandeur reflecting its heritage, built in 1905.
Amenities: Wi-fi (free), centrally located, air conditioning, bar, garden, lounge, hair dryers.
# of Rooms: 50 + 5 suites
Rooms: Charming, spacious, clean.
Ambiance: Stepping back into time, feels like you should be dressed in ball gown on way to a party.
Staff: Lovely, warm, helpful.
Food: Renowned for their food, breakfast buffet was delicious with a huge array of food.
Highlights: Well located within walking distance of most of Swakopmund, including the market. Dolphin watching on small speedboat, where the seals come right on board with you!
Other: As the largest coastal city, this is the cool respite from the dry desert heat. Where Namibians retreat during their hottest month. Considered to be the most German city outside Germany.
http://www.hansahotel.com.na/
Property: Wowedans Dune Camp
Location: NamibRand Nature Reserve
Décor: Luxury tented camp, open kitchen, warm, homey, “Old Africa”, great photography on the walls.
Amenities: 24 hour lights in tents, no outlets. (can charge electronics in dining area)
# of Rooms: 6 tents
Rooms: Traditional safari tented camp with luxurious linens, beautiful bathrooms, wooden decks and lounge chairs with sweeping views.
Ambiance: Rustic yet luxurious, tranquil.
Staff: Warm, personal, friendly, always smiling.
Food: Excellent with much thought spent on vegetarian dishes: veggie soup with croutons, stuffed tomatoes with broccoli and potato wedges, salad, deep fried mushrooms with cheese, key lime pie…..yum!
Highlights: Wolwedans properties are associated with NICE – Namibian Institute of Culinary Education. The staff has trained there and it shows!
Other: Use solar power, stunning desert and mountain views. Wildlife viewing was really good here – an oryx outside my tent in the early morning, good game drive, beautiful sundowner spots. Brad, Angelina and kids stayed here, and by the way, also fly with African Profile Safaris!
http://www.wolwedans.com/lodges-camps/dune-camp/
Property: Little Kulala
Location: Sossusvlei, Namib Naukluft Park
Décor: Warm, boutique Africa chic.
Amenities: Each room has private plunge pool, rooftop sky bed for sleeping under the star-studded night sky (highly recommended), outlets, hair dryers, library, wine cellar.
# of Rooms: 11
Rooms: Gorgeous! White washed floors, neutral colors with multiple textures, luxurious linens, spacious and cool bathrooms with indoor shower for 2 and outdoor shower.
Ambiance: Très chic! Gorgeous, comfortable, serene, eclectic and unexpected.
Staff: Helpful, personable, fun, smiling.
Food: Good, always with a vegetarian option.
Highlights: Staff did an impromptu dance after dinner – have never seen a group have so much fun, and boy, the kitchen staff loves to dance!
Other: The dunes are close by + Deadvlei, nature drives, ballooning.
http://www.wilderness-safaris.com/namibia_sossusvlei/little_kulala/introduction/
Property: GocheGanas
Location: GocheGanas Nature Reserve (approx. 30k outside Windhoek)
Décor: Warm, comfortable, beautiful views.
Amenities: Spa, pool, gym, hair dryers, Wi-fi (slow) in dining and reception areas.
# of Rooms: 16
Rooms: Warm, comfortable, soaking tub + outdoor shower.
Ambiance: Africa safari updated.
Staff: Lovely, friendly.
Food: Decent, vegetarian options not as good as expected for a spa.
Highlights: Massages including outdoor massage in the bush, wellness treatments, skin care, wraps, peels, hydrotherapy baths, etc., game drives, guided walks, star gazing, mountain biking. If only I’d had time….
Other: A treat to end your vacation with relaxing and rejuvenating body treatments in an environment with 360 degree views.
http://www.gocheganas.com
Windhoek Properties:
The Village Courtyard Suites – industrial chic, charming, warm, spacious rooms with mini-kitchens, delicious Fresh ‘n Wild restaurant.
Olive Grove Guesthouse – oh my, uber industrial chic, private small infinity pools, each room is a different color palette reflecting the Namibia landscape.
Terra Africa Guesthouse – best garden, very homey.
Vondelhof Guesthouse – homey, well-designed, great location to walk to restaurants.
Hilton – not your American Hilton! Almost boutique chic, fabulous roof top pool + bar, open kitchen, delightful manager.
Other Namibia observations:
- Namibians seem to love feta cheese as you find it on many menus along with the ubiquitous Greek salads! No complaints, just found it surprising…..
- One thing that charmed me was the number of properties with dogs (and a few cats) – people seem to love their pets and take good care of them, and to me, that says a lot about the people!
- Of course you can expect an excellent selection of wonderful South African wines.
- Namibian immigration officials are quite unfriendly, unsmiling and unwelcoming but once in the country, people are lovely. Don’t let the ‘lack of greeting’ set the tone of your trip.
- There are no visa fees!
- Namibia is a no risk malaria destination.
- The water is good and safe to drink in Windhoek.
Namibia is a mesmerizing, scenic country with so many areas that it will take many trips to explore all there is. Marie or Marianne at African Profile Safaris can assist with your planning and navigation to ensure that your trips are expertly planned according to your clients’ interests.
